I am not so fresh from the Sandemans New Jerusalem free tour: three and a half hours in search of shady spots in the heat – 32 degrees I heard someone say. I have no hesitation in booking a second, paid tour for tomorrow.
Moki, our guide, took us around the four quarters of the Old City and crammed us full of information. I appreciate that he’s a local – raised in Jerusalem – as well as trained as a guide. Even his jokes are worth waiting for! At the end of the tour I take the tour company up on their offer of a free drink though I’m one of only three members of the tour party who make it this far. Ten minutes – ten minutes more – is a long way to walk in this heat.
What of Jerusalem? Perhaps the most fought-over city in the world, it is both steeped in history and vibrant with modern-day living. Twenty-six thousand people live in the Old City of whom the vast majority are Muslim. I find it hard to connect with the deep spiritual significance of this Holy City for people of three major faiths, for all the traders who want to invite me into their shops. The world recession is having its impact here, too, and there are bargains to be had, though I’m not here for the shopping. And then there are the disputed historical questions. Where did Jesus’ last supper take place? And what was his precise path to the place of his resurrection? Although the Via Dolorosa and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre mark Christ’s journey to his death on the cross, it seems that the actual route he took was a little different.
It seems strange that coming to Jerusalem, the Holy City, is an added bonus on my brief trip to Israel. On Sunday I celebrated – with great joy – the marriage of my dear friend Rob with Shimrit, his beautiful Israeli bride. When we visit the Western (Wailing) Wall, my thoughts are with them both. I wish many blessings upon them. I embrace the blessings that Rob, in line with his Jewish traditions, has wished upon me. And I feel so blessed to be a witness to the beginning of their married life together.