Alan, my brother, Judy, his wife, and Edward, their son have already had the chance to do a ‘reccy’ and to experience the cold. Since their arrival the temperature has increased dramatically and the virgin snow is increasingly grey and beginning to melt.
Walking from our hostel we quickly arrive at the city’s main square. Throughout our stay we return to the square again and again and enjoy its festive offerings as well as its physical beauty. St. Mary’s Church towers over the square and every hour on the hour a lone trumpet player marks history, reminding the city of an attack by the Mongols in the 13th Century.
Two days in a row I am entranced by three accordion players who, at the entrance to the square’s Cloth Hall, play renditions of classical music which defy any stereotype I bring of the accordionist’s art. Together with the family I stop to listen and enjoy. Perhaps my delight reflects my surprise at the commitment that has gone into shaping Vivaldi for accordion and playing it so well.
It is Christmas and the Christmas market reflects the season. My brother has already discovered the local smoked cheese which is available as a snack – toasted and with cranberry preserve. It goes well with Krakow’s mulled wine which is also available in the market square.
Though I am no fan of the cold, I am delighted that my first visit to Krakow is at Christmas.